Americans like to call them “Mexican pizzas,” but, truth be told, it’s a bit of a misnomer. Sure, tlayudas are round, cheesy and sprinkled with toppings, but in terms of flavor, they’ve got much more in common with burritos than they do with pizza. And the base of tlayudas isn’t dough: It’s a thin, crispy, sometimes deep-fried tortilla coated in pureed or refried beans and asiento (pork lard).
Generally cooked over an open flame, this classic Oaxcan street food is best eaten after a few glasses of mescal, late at night, say 3 AM, when its still available at many food stalls and trucks throughout the city. As most of them are enormous, you can easily split one with a couple of friends and still feel satisfied.
Traditional Tlayudas
A standard tlayuda (pronounced tla-YU-duh) incorporates strips of meat with avocado slices, quesillo (Oaxacan string cheese), tomato and shredded lettuce. Choose from chorizo (spicy pork sausage), tasajo (beef), or cecina (spicy pork). Some vendors will fold them in half, while others leave them open-faced. Either way, stock up on napkins before you dig in: tlayudas are messy (and fun) as hell.
Tlyaudas for the Adventurous
Whether or not you eat them on a tlayuda, you’ve got to try chapulines (grasshoppers) at some point if you’re an adventurous eater. Tlayudas are an ideal base for this crispy snack. Traditionally prepared with garlic, lime juice and salt, they add a crunchy pop to an otherwise soft, saucy dish.
Vegan and Vegetarian Tlayudas
Unless you’re at a vegan spot, make sure you order your tlayuda “sin asiento” to forego the traditional layer of pork lard. While vegetarians can enjoy the thick spirals of Oaxacan string cheese that grace classic versions, there are plenty of vegan joints in the city that cater to those who want to avoid carne y queso entirely. Often topped with mushrooms, vegan tlayudas pack just as much personality as their traditional counterparts—if you know where to find them.
Travel with Cultural Convergence and our guides will let you know where to find the best tlayudas of any kind in the city, whether you’re craving a chorizo topped dish, or something more exotic. Book your trip today.
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